A brief and recent history of restaurants: First, there were places of taste and pastimes and chiaroscuro lighting and low piano notes of laughter; places of urbane chat over classic dishes and cocktails and wines and—of course, of course—steaks made the right way. Those were the days. Then people got fancy with their food and tried new things. Good for them. But they always come back. Classic is classic because classic serves, and serves well.   And here we are again, back to...READ MORE